On top of the issues that come with garments not being used at all, the Use/Care phase plays a very significant role in the life cycle impact of clothes, and has even been estimated to be the stage with the highest impact together with raw material extraction. Laundry alone accounts for approximately 30% of the carbon footprint of clothing. During this phase, large amounts of water, energy and chemicals are used in washing, tumble drying and ironing, and there is the issue of microplastics shed into the environment. It also is the longest phase of the garment, as these actions can be repeated hundreds of times, further degrading the garment and turning it into waste. It really is a critical stage, where our habits can make a big difference. Additionally, impact varies for different products and depends upon factors such as consumer behaviour, geographical zone in which the product is used, and even the weather conditions in that zone. Let’s look at each one of these issues in detail…
Washing, drying and ironing jeans at home requires large amounts of water, energy (mechanical and thermal), and chemicals.
Additionally, all this stress reduces the lifespan of clothes, as fibres degrade or shrink, colours fade, and clothes end up not being usable anymore.
The impact of your wash highly depends on the energy mix of your supplier (whether your electricity was made from impactful sources such as coal, or through renewable energy, like hydro), and the temperature that your tap water starts from, which is why we mentioned the geographical area. According to the UK Energy Saving Trust, choosing to wash at 30 degrees rather than at higher temperatures uses around 40% less energy, and reduces the degradation of clothes. According to WRAP, extending the average life of clothes by just three months of active use per item would lead to a 5 to 10% reduction in each of the carbon, water and waste footprints.
Many of you have probably read terrifying headlines detailing the amount of plastics that we eat on average every year due to microplastics having entered the food chain, and being found in water, vegetables, milk, etc. Remember us mentioning microplastics earlier? What is the difference?
Microplastics are plastic pieces less than five millimeters in length (mostly formed when plastic waste material that has been discarded in nature breaks down), and microfibres are a subcategory of microplastics that are fibrous in shape (mostly formed in the washing of textiles that contain plastics, such as polyester and nylon). According to researchers at the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), plastic particles washed off from products such as synthetic clothes & textiles contribute to 35% of primary microplastics polluting our oceans. That is a LOT!
How does this happen? During each wash, the fibres undergo a large amount of stress due to the force of the water, the temperature, and the chemicals that are applied through soaps, softeners etc. This causes tiny pieces to break, so small they’re not visible to the human eye, and end up in the water.
There is no need to panic, and yes you should still continue washing your clothes, however there are several things that you can do:
+ Firstly, washing garments less often is the most effective way to reduce the environmental impact. By washing your jeans every 10x instead of every 2x, you can drastically reduce energy use, climate change impact, and water intake!
+ Spot-clean your clothes. Often a small stain means that we wash 3kg of fabric – this seems unnecessary right? Just use a damp cloth. It also means you can rewear your jeans much faster than having to wait for when you find the time to do a full wash.
+ Make sure you check the fabric care label to make sure that you’re washing your clothes on the right setting, to ensure that they will not get damaged through the washing cycle. Keep in mind that the number for the temperature is the maximum temperature that the garment can withstand – not the advised temperature for the wash.
+ Reduce washing temperature. Higher temperatures encourage the loss of dye and fade black and bright clothes by opening up the fibres. Unless your jeans are truly filthy, cleaning denim at a cooler temperature (30 degrees C or lower), and as little as possible, will help them last longer and look better. Does your older family member believe that you only really clean your clothes with very hot water? You can explain to them that detergents (such as Ariel and Persil) have evolved significantly in the last decades, and for clothes not including baby clothing, towels and bedding, they can effectively kill bacteria and remove stains.
+ Always wash at full load.
+ Only use a small amount of detergent on a delicate cycle. Find a list of good detergents here!
+ Turn your clothes inside out, this will protect the most visible part of your favourite pieces.
+ For knits, hand wash over machine wash when needed and lay flat to dry.
+ Wool barely needs to be washed, especially because wool jumpers rarely touch our skins, so they don’t absorb sweat. If they do absorb an unpleasant smell, they just need to be hung out and the material will naturally lose it! If you do have to wash them, and can’t just spot clean a stain, make sure you hand wash, or wash cold with a delicate spinning setting and hang dry. This way you won’t create pilling and your jumper could last forever.
+ Leather is a tricky one to wash, but the great news is that it barely gets stained, it’s naturally moisture resistant, so as soon as it gets stained, try wiping it with a damp cloth.
+ For all clothes try to avoid drying and ironing as much as possible. Generating heat requires vast amounts of energy. Hanging your clothes can be a pleasant and mindful activity, which can also reduce your electricity bill. Give clothes a shake and smooth them out before you hang them up, so that they don't dry and set with creases.
+ Try to purchase eco-friendly fibres, such as 100% cotton jeans, that will not release any microplastics when washed.
+ Consider using a filtering bag or ball that traps microfibres during washing.
