Step 1

raw materials

Need help finding a supplier or getting connected directly at the farm level? Contact Simply Suzette here.

From issues with its extraction, its release of microplastics during use, and its incompatibility with a circular economy, so many aspects of plastic clothing are just wrong.

According to the Changing Markets Foundation, today over two-thirds (69%) of textiles are made from plastic, and this is expected to grow to 73% by 2030. This is because oil-based fabrics such as polyester are cheap, smooth, strong, durable and consistent.

Most of the clothing we make today comes from petroleum (aka oil), a non-renewable resource. The petrochemicals industry has complicated social and political implications that are relevant to all industries that use petroleum-derived products.

Petrol is used to make all types of synthetic materials, which include:

Polyester
Nylon
Elastane / Spandex
Lycra (branded spandex, polyester and nylon)
Plastic buttons, zippers, and beads

Polyester, a synthetic fibre derived from petroleum, is the most widely used fibre in the clothing industry today with estimates reaching up to two thirds of all fashion. Its emergence as a fashion staple can be attributed to its durability, resistance to shrinking and stretching, and its quick-drying capabilities. Developed in the early 20th century, polyester's popularity soared in the 1970s when the textile industry began to favour it for its ability to mimic natural fibres at a lower cost and for its performance characteristics.

The process of making polyester involves the polymerization of ethylene glycol with terephthalic acid. This produces a plastic fibre that can be spun into threads and yarns, and used to weave or knit into fabrics. If you want to get into the details, we’ve outlined the exact extraction process here.

Many make the argument for polyester production because it uses less water and land than most natural fibres. However, according to Common Objective, the energy required to produce polyester (125 MJ of energy per kilogram produced) makes it a high-impact process and based on its extraction process, it is clearly not superior to natural fibres even though LCAs may say otherwise (more on this below).

Efforts to improve the sustainability of polyester focus on recycling existing polyester materials and developing bio-based alternatives. However, we warn against recycled polyester as it still fuels our desire for plastic based materials and does not solve the microplastics issue, which are discussed in detail here. Advances in technology are also exploring the creation of polyester from bio-based sources, aiming to reduce dependency on oil and lower greenhouse gas emissions. Despite these efforts, polyester is still plastic – meaning the same materials are used for fossil fuels and for clothing with many of the same impacts.

Spandex, also known as elastane or by the brand name Lycra, is a synthetic fibre known for its exceptional elasticity. It is a lightweight, soft, and smooth material that can stretch up to five times its original length, making it a crucial component in a wide range of clothing for its ability to enhance comfort and fit. First developed in the 1950s as an alternative to rubber in garments, spandex quickly became indispensable in the fashion industry, particularly in activewear, swimwear, and underwear.

From an environmental standpoint, spandex presents challenges similar to those of other synthetic fibres. Being petroleum-based, its production is resource-intensive and contributes to the consumption of non-renewable resources. Additionally, spandex is not biodegradable, leading to concerns about its long-term impact on the environment, particularly as it contributes to the growing issue of textile waste in landfills.

Natural rubber offers an intriguing alternative to elastane (spandex) in various applications due to its unique properties and environmental benefits. Derived from the sap of the rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), natural rubber possesses elasticity, resilience, and durability that can be harnessed in the textile industry, particularly in the production of elastic components of clothing.

Natural rubber boasts notable advantages for the planet and our well-being, but it's not a perfect match just yet. Its elasticity and strength are commendable, yet sometimes they can't fully compete with the stretch and resilience of elastane. Moreover, transforming rubber trees into chic garments involves navigating complex challenges, from avoiding deforestation to ensuring fair working conditions. However, innovators and forward-thinkers are tirelessly enhancing natural rubber's performance and refining its production process, so keep an eye out for the nature-based solutions!

But keep in mind, natural alternatives are only sustainable if we significantly reduce production.

Nylon was a groundbreaking synthetic fibre and made its debut in the 1930s as the first true synthetic textile fibre, revolutionising the fashion and textile industries. Celebrated for its exceptional strength, elasticity, and resistance to abrasion and mildew, nylon quickly became a cornerstone material for a vast array of products, ranging from hosiery and swimwear to parachutes and toothbrush bristles. Its invention marked a new era in textiles, offering a durable, versatile, and cost-effective alternative to natural fibres.

The creation of nylon involves the polymerization of caprolactam, resulting in a material that boasts high tensile strength and flexibility. This process yields a fibre capable of being woven or knitted into fabrics that are lightweight, yet strong, with a silky smooth texture. Nylon's ability to dry quickly and retain its shape even after repeated wear and washing has cemented its place in our wardrobes and homes.

Like other synthetics, nylon is petroleum-based, its production relying heavily on non-renewable resources and emitting significant levels of greenhouse gases. Additionally, nylon is not biodegradable, contributing to the persistent problem of plastic pollution in our ecosystems. The durability that makes nylon so valuable also means it can take decades to decompose, posing challenges for waste management and recycling efforts.

In a perfect world, consumption would be reduced significantly, but there will always be some clothing made in which case synthetics should be replaced by natural fibres (which is extremely easy in most cases). For stretchy materials, it is more complicated, however solutions are being developed.

+ COREVA™ is an innovative technology developed and patented by Candiani Denim that uses a plant-based yarn obtained from natural rubber to replace synthetic, petrol-based yarns. Made from organic cotton wrapped around a natural rubber core, the result is a yarn that is completely plastic-free and biodegradable. By replacing conventional synthetic and petrol-based elastomers with a new, custom-engineered component, Candiani has created an innovative stretch denim fabric – without compromising the elasticity, physical qualities, and durability of jeans.

+ Mechanical Stretch. One natural stretch solution we have seen from Naveena Denim is creating high-stretch fabrics made from 100% cotton. How have they done this? The Mecha-Stretch concept is a mechanical stretch concept designed for 100% cotton woven fabrics. It truly has an elastic behaviour thanks to a specialised weaving technique. This kind of weaving technique can be found in all fashion garments.

+ Pangaia bio-based nylon is biodegradable plant-based nylon sourced from castor beans, however, the material states that it is only 30% derived from bio-based origins. Keep your eyes on Pangaia as they work to increase this with time and learn more about it here.

+ Lycra bio-based spandex. The LYCRA Company has partnered with QIRA to produce bio-based spandex, specifically plant-based sugars derived from field corn grown by Iowa farmers. This innovation supports moving away from fossil based fibres while preserving performance standards and existing manufacturing processes.

The environmental and social impacts of synthetic materials have long been a concern, but with growing awareness of the harms associated with their extraction and processing, recycled versions are now emerging as the fashion industry's celebrated sustainable alternatives.

From PET bottles transformed into polyester fabric to reclaimed nylon fishnets morphing into swimwear, there is hardly a single high street fashion brand who isn’t shouting about recycled synthetics.

Certifications include:

Global Recycling Standard (GRS)
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)

Recycled synthetic materials are the fashion industry's nod to a "less guilt" approach, trying to clean up the mess left by their non-recyclable siblings.

One might believe « recycled polyester » is made from recycled polyester fabric but sorry to burst your bubble – it is not. In fact, it is made from recycled PET, commonly known as… plastic bottles! To make recycled polyester, plastic bottles are shredded into flakes, converted into pellets, melted, and spun into yarn. But, what’s wrong with diverting plastic bottles from landfills and turning them into fabric?

In order to create recycled polyester, PET material is taken out of a potentially circular economy and dragged into a linear, product-to-waste, one. Bottle-to-bottle recycling can work efficiently in a closed loop where new bottles can be made from old ones. But once a bottle is turned into polyester yarn and blended with other fibres, like cotton, it cannot be recycled anymore. There are amazing technologies extracting polyester to recycle it, but these have yet to be scaled, meaning garments containing polyester are most likely to end their life in the incinerator or landfill. These recycling methods may also come with high costs in the form of chemical and energy use.

While recycling lets synthetic materials take a second chance at life, it's slapping a band-aid on a much larger problem. We're still in bed with the plastic industry, complete with its tricky microplastics that release during processing and with every wash, turning our oceans and aquatic friends into unwilling participants in this not-so-glamorous saga.

Sure, converting waste into wearable items does cut down on some energy and resource use, but let's face it, we're essentially still sitting at the table with the petrochemical industry. So, while recycled synthetics are making an attempt at a "less bad" approach, perhaps it's time to get rid of them altogether.

A lot of vegan/animal-free leather alternatives contain plastics, the first one that reached markets years ago is PU leather or Microfiber Leather. A lot of new alternatives combine bio-based materials with a percentage of PU.

Microfiber Leather:
- A smooth, synthetic material which can replicate the look and feel of animal skin products.
- It’s supple, durable and versatile, making it a more sustainable alternative to leather and suede.
- PU = polyurethane = plastic

NEXT STEP →

What & Why

Many companies have a limited view of the network of business partners within their supply chain and do not get the full story behind their products. Getting this information and being able to know all the steps that a garment has gone through is called Traceability.

Most know their immediate suppliers, which are the factories that do the cutting, sewing and final quality control, but information about their suppliers, subcontractors, or component suppliers is easily lost. For plastics, information tends to get lost at the mill level: a mill buys dyed yarns from resellers, and there is no information on where the plastic pallets come from, let alone the raw materials and the oil extraction.

Traceability is the concept of looking at the supply chain and being able to accurately map all contents and suppliers from the raw material extraction stage to its end use. It requires the collaboration of all industry partners, the deployment of common approaches and reliable technical solutions that are fit for different environments.

Traceability is also key for recycled plastics, to ensure that those are really recycled, and not just labelled so. There are credible rumours that the demand for recycled PET in fashion was so high that a factory was set up to make plastic bottles just to “recycle” them into clothing.

The practice of subcontracting certainly plays a key role in traceability, which is highly connected to the amount of plastic packaging that we explain below.

Both transparency and traceability are now a priority for the garment industry to manage supply chains more effectively and discover where hidden plastics can be replaced, however transparency and traceability individually are not enough.

Best Practices

We have physical tracers and blockchain traceability, and we have some companies who are combining the two. Physical marking allows for information about the supply chain to be written in the garment through chemical or physical marking. Blockchain traceability requires adding information into the blockchain, which relies on the correct information being added at each stage.

Several of these solutions apply QR codes to clothing labels so that customers can learn about the provenance of their garments. These include the Lyfcycle (mobile app and web traceability platform), or brand initiatives, such as by Residus. They can include information on fibres, certifications, processes, location of production, and visibility on several aspects of the supply chain. QR codes are also useful tools for informing consumers of best practices in garment aftercare and end-of-life.

Examples of traceability solutions for synthetic materials are →

+ The TextileGenesis™ platform is an outcome of intensive “grass-root” discussions with the entire apparel supply chain; its technology combines blockchain with GS1 (a global traceability standard) for the apparel industry. Its platform allows digitization and traceability of any textile asset such as fibre, yarn, fabric, or garment through fibrecoins™ (blockchain based digital-tokens, likened to fingerprints). fibrecoins stay intact no matter how many times the material is reused or recycled, and the information is stored using blockchain, which can’t be altered or tampered with.

+ EON, another major company focusing on traceability using QR codes, was founded in 2015 with the mission to power industry's transition to a circular system of commerce. EON established the CircularID™ Initiative in 2018, to develop a protocol that would unlock the communication and connectivity for this network. Through the initiative, EON led the development of the Circular Product Data Protocol - the global language for connected products. Today, EON works with global brands and retail's across the fashion industry to provide Digital ID technology and implementation.

+ Tailorlux is a solution provider for material integrity and detection, offering a total concept that gives your product an individual fingerprint. Uniquely, the tracer is permanent even when it’s recycled and can be easily implemented in yarns and threads made of synthetic fibres or cellulose.

+ Aviant has created a tracer technology employing 'taggants', unique chemical markers integrated into synthetic textile fibres during the spinning to dyeing processes. These taggants provide a distinct identity for customers and their product lines, enabling end-use fabrics to undergo testing to confirm their origin.